Where we've been: Trip Progress Map & Resources

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 J A N U A R Y / 06

Tuesday January 31 2006

Pumalin Park

On Chile's soggy west coast, the Parque Pumalin is a massive wilderness area containing an ancient Alerce forest, as well as numerous fiords, glaciers, lakes, rivers and hot springs.

The park is unique in that the original lands (a former estancia) were bought by an individual with the intention of turning the land into a park, and eventually purchasing surrounding land to increase the protected area. For more information on this and related inspiring and unique projects, check out both the park website, and the site for the Patagonia Land Trust.

The park must be in one of the wettest paces on earth. It rained for 48 hours, without respite, when we first arrived. Along the access road (the infamous Carretera Austral) there are a number of delightful interpretive trails with carved signs and wooden bridges and ladders overgrown with thick mosses and felty ferns. Campgrounds are nothing short of amazing, with individual sites centred around secluded sturdy wooden "module" shelters, spotless bathrooms with big enamel washing up sinks, and lots of potable water.

Above: one of the tasteful signs seen throughout the park, this one beside a 1500 year-old Alerce tree. The sign explains that the tree has been declared a protected species, and is a Chilean natural monument.

Walking to the Ventisquero Glacier, on the south east of Michinmahuida Volcano, along a floodplain riddled with braided streams. From the coast and the islands of Chiloé, Michinmahuida dominates the Andean range. On clear days during our kayak trip we often watched clouds form and fade on it's massive snowfields as we paddled toward the mountains.

Saturday January 28 2006

Images from Chiloé

Chiloé, a big island in the south of Chilean Patagonia, buffers a small archipelago of twenty or so islands that span eastward to the village of Chaiten on the mainland. We paddled our kayak through part of this archipelago over eight days. The weather in Chiloé is perhaps the most exciting thing that happens on the island. In the fishing village of Dalcahue we were treated to a double "arco iris" at the end of a day of truly tumultuous weather.

Fishboats moored at Achao, Quinchao Island's principal fishing village.

Salmon farm, near Achao.

Died kelp, ducklings, mussels (or mariscos in spanish) for sale in the market in Achao. Fish and seaweed are not only a part of the local diet, but are collected and sold for export to Asia.

We popped by to visit this sea lion colony during a long crossing between Quinchao and Cahuash islands.

Hand spun and naturally-dyed wool and dolls (muñecas) of traditional Chiloté folk in the Artesania markets.

Chiloés historic and famous all-wood churches (even wooden dowels were used rather than nails) were made from the Alerce tree (now a protected species). This is the church in the village of Cahuash, one of the biggest in the archipelago, and marvelously well-preserved.

Interior detail of the church in Cahuash.

Consulting the chart before heading out on an early morning crossing.

The church on the remote island of Chuit has been closed for some time, due to migration to Chile's mainland and beyond. These days the locals must travel to neighbouring islands to worship. During a walk along the island's eastern beach we met some suspicious fishermen who told us the last foreigners (Chileans, from Santiago) on the island were outlaws hiding out from the Police (who eventually turned up and took them away). Understandably, they were curious to find out when we would be leaving.

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January 8 2006

Refugio Cerro Piltriquitron

We walked up to this refugio, and along the way through a forest of wood carvings. Only an hour's drive and short walk from El Bolsón, we were rewarded with views of the valley, and home made beer when we got to the top.

The two cooks at the refugio turn out delicious pizzas, cakes, hot drinks and other treats in a tiny kitchen.

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Thursday January 05 2006

Like a magnet

We keep getting drawn back up to El Bolsón. This time we returned from Esquel to meet our friends from Bolivia, Bert and Zoila and their kids. On the drive back I saw some nice signs with funky type...

Leleque Museum

The small, nicely designed and informative Leleque Museum outlines the history of Patagonian inhabitants. From the times when the Tehuelche Aboriginal people lived on the land, to their inevitable assimilation with European immigrants (Welsh, Italian, German), and the industrialization and commercialization of resources.

The museum is on the remote Estancia Leleque, a gorgeous property owned by Carlos Benetton (yes, that Benetton). Apparently 10% of Benetton's merino wool sweaters are made from the fleece of Australian Sheep raised in Patagonia. This is a page from a hefty coffee table book, depicting (somewhat romantically) life on the five estancias held by Benetton's Argentinean land company.

Helados JauJa: Best Ice Cream in Argentina

I am no connoiseur, but with what I've tried so far: dark chocolate with candied orange, strawberry lemon, calafate (blueberry) made from sheeps' milk, grapefruit sorbet, cassis, I wouldn't argue. The constant lineups and general sense of merriment in front of this little outdoor ice cream parlour are a testament to the goodness of these handmade ice creams.

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Tuesday January 03 2006

Double-dipping in the Lakes District

When December approaches, I start trolling around for places to go where Christmas is a casual affair, or better yet, doesn't exist at all. In past years mountains, lakes, remote islands, deep canyons, and countries where Islam is the dominant religion have been good escapes from the land of Santa. Luckily, or conveniently, Christmas in Patagonia is a low key affair (I swear, I haven't heard one single Christmas carol this year) so I didn't need to look too far. The nearby peaks and valleys of the Comarca Andino (a section of the Andes that faces - and the glaciers of which feed into - the fertile valleys of the folksy town of El Bolsón where Frank and I were based) and some research turned up some interesting possibilities in the area. We made a plan to trek into the headwaters of the Rio Azul for four days, return to town to re provision, and then head south to the Parque Nacional Los Alerces for another four day trip over New Years' - this time paddling the five lakes on the east side of the park.

There are so many possibilities for wilderness travel in the Argentinean Lakes District, to narrow the options down to two superb trips (both easily accessible) which allowed us to both walk and paddle was easy. It took only two hours to drive from the Rio Azul trek to the lakes in the national park, where we parked The Rhino (under the watchful eye of the impressive National Parks staff) and started paddling down river.

But first here are some shots from the trek, which after three months of driving and not much exercise, was rather grueling.

Hielo Rio Azul to Cajón del Azul

One of the three crossings over the Rio Azul on rickety (but safe!) suspension bridges.

Our destination on day one, the meadows of the Refugio Hielo Azul (blue ice refugio)

There is a network of welcoming mountain refuges in the Comarca Andina, some owned by the local Club Andino such as the one at Hielo Azul, and others built as part of a private homesteads by ambitious folk who desire to live off the land... and the appetites of trekkers. Hungry after a long 1000 meter climb? No problem. Lamb stew, home made bread, produce from the veggie patch, free range eggs and artesanal beer are all on the menu.

Christmas dinner: Thai red curry with vegetables and smoked trout, and a good bottle of red.

By popular request, a photo of the Mistress of Perpetual Leisure & Alpine Gastronomy, looking rather empty-handed without her camera.

Winter continued late into December in Patagonia. Many high altitude treks are still closed, and there are patches of snow in the meadows.

The tough three day trek winds through a Nirré (southern beech) forest, a species found only in the southern hemisphere, and common in Patagonia.

The refugio at Cajon Azul is owned and run by friendly Atilio, a "Porteño (native of Buenos Aires), who built the lodge and has lived on the land for 27 years.

The environment around El Bolsón and the Parque Nacional Los Alerces is stunning. There are endless mountains, rivers, lakes, back roads, and trails to discover. The summer climate is dry and warm: the Andes range to the west blocks moisture, leaving the rains to dump down on the Chilean coast. The regional food is mouthwatering: frutas finas" (berries, peaches, cherries...), trout and goats' cheese boasting the biggest demand at the thrice-weekly artesania fair (closely followed by draft artesanal beer served up by any one of the four micro-breweries). Multi-coloured roses bloom alongside fields of pinky-purple lupines, where burly bumble bees lethargically gorge on wildflowers. Campsites often have horses grazing in the surrounding fields (or around the tents), fruit trees dotted with ripening fruit, and an endless parade of wacky and vocal bird life.

Okay, it can't be all wine and roses you say? The dirt is: the horseflies are fierce and unrelenting. Bug repellent? Don't even bother. These little buggers are out to kill.

Kayaking the Seven Lakes in Parque Nacional Los Alerces

Rio Rivadivia, as seen from the roadside lookout. We were able to coast the river, dodging the odd rapid and snag, the full 12 kilometers where it eventually flows into Lago Verde.

The suspension bridge at the mouth of Rio Arrayanes marks the beginning of another delightful down stream meander. The water is so clear rainbow trout can be seen swimming below.

Apparently the fuchsia plant originated in Patagonia. This bush stood two meters high and the blooms were as big as the palm of my hand.

A Caña de Cohuie forest on a walk near Lago Kruger. I have seen this plant in many places in Patagonia, and presumed it was an introduced bamboo from Asia, but according to the inn-keeper at the Lago Krügger Lodge, it is in fact native to Patagonia, and grows rampantly. It was quite enchanting to walk through tunnels of the stuff on the way down to the rapids on the Rio Frey.

Tents under the canopy of Nirré and Caña forest, in the Lago Krügger campsite.

Sailing to our final destination on Lago Futalaufquen. During the four day trip I would guess we sailed 50 kilometers, coasted down 20 kilometers of river, and paddled the remaining 30 kilometers. Quite auspicious to have the wind at our back on New Years day. I hope it continues.

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Thanks for visiting.

all photographs lindsay simmonds ©2005